The industry continues to develop a wider range of new generation alternative ingredients for skincare as science continues to explore new ways to stem the tide of visible aging. At the HBA Global session— Novel Ingredients for Skin—a panel of experts discussed new ingredient technologies that range from an overview of the molecular mechanism of the de-pigmenting action of trans-resveratrol and an exploration of Lucuma seed extract’s anti-aging properties to bio-fractions of pea, rice-bran and yeast, and their roles in youthful skin.
Pouteria Lucuma
Leonel Rojo, Ph.D., post-doctoral fellow, Rutgers University, gave a glimpse into Pouteria Lucuma from Incan Golden Fruit. Lucuma grows most commonly in areas of Peru and Chile. It has been found on ceramics at burial sites of the indigenous people of coastal Peru. The Moche people had a fascination with agriculture and often chose to represent lucuma in their art.
Lucuma seed extract has been found to produce anti-aging benefits by:
- Inducing the expression of elastin
- Increasing mRNA levels
- Protecting human dermal fibroblasts against H2O2-induced senescence
- Promoting fibroblast migration
- Increasing vascular recovery
- In clinical tests, lucuma seed extract has proven to contain potent anti-aging properties, outperforming other ingredients on the market.
Yeast, Peas and Rice-Bran
Anna Gripp, senior director, global marketing for ISP Corp., presented her findings on incorporating bio-fractions of yeast, peas and rice-bran for brightening, moisturizing and de-stressing the skin, respectively.
Yeast Bio-Fraction:
- According to ex-vivo studies, yeast bio-fractions have shown to induce skin brightening after 48 hours of treatment.
- Yeast bio-fractions outperformed Kojic acid, (which was used as a benchmark during the study) proving to be more effective in brightening the skin.
- This ingredient is applicable for use in radiance enhancing, brightening, age spot reducing, and anti-aging and hand-care products.
Pea Bio-fraction:
- Promotes hydration by targeting moisturization processes in skin.
- Enhances filaggrin in upper skin layer and increases GAGs (glucoaminoglycans) to enhance water control.
- Helps preserve skin from dehydration, and improves short- and long-term skin moisturization.
- Enhances skin barrier function based on clinical study results.
- Applicable for skincare and sun care products, as well as color cosmetics.
Rice Bio-Fraction:
- Glycation, a process by which simple sugars bond with either a protein or a fat molecule, leading to premature aging by damaging collagen and accelerating wrinkle formation.
- Natriance™ Destresser, a bio-fraction derived from rice-bran decreased formations of UV-induced lesions on DNA (CPDs) in skin after UV stress.
- In in-vitro studies, rice bio-fractions have shown to increase ATP production and decrease MGO cell death.
- Applicable for skin care and sun care products, as well as color cosmetics.
Trans-Resveratrol
Juana L. Flores, Ph.D., manager, open innovation and external business development, DSM Nutritional Products, spoke about trans-resveratrol and how it can be used to safely and naturally develop radiant, youthful-looking skin, including:
- An antioxidant with skin-brightening properties found primarily in red grapes and red wine
- Downregulates expression of key genes involved in melanogenesis
- Reduces melanin synthesis in human melanocytes