PCHi 2011’s show floor was a gold mine for new, innovative ingredients, technologies and trends. From Technico Flor’s nano fragrance and JF Naturals’ grape seed extract, to Honsea’s organic jasmine oil, PCHi 2011 was a mecca for the latest innovations in cosmeceuticals and personal care ingredients. Here's just a few of the companies featured on the show floor this year:
JF Natural, exhibiting for its first time at PCHi introduced two new ingredients this year: Appjnol®, a blend of apple (Malus pumila mill) with chlorgenic acid, catechin, epicatechin, phlorizin, etc., that’s been shown to scavenge free radicals and inhibit tyrosianse activity; and Aphloretin®, a pure apple extract that’s exhibited high antioxidant activity, moisturization properties and the ability to function as a natural whitening agent, according to in-house tests. JF Naturals also showcased its resveratrol ingredient—ResAQUA™—which has typically been used in food and nutraceutical applications but in the past few years has started to market it for cosmeceuticals applications as well.
Korea-based Advanced Cosmeceutical Technology (ACT) uses botanical-based, phytochemical science for its Panax ginseng ingredient. Typically, ginseng is used in nutraceutical applications for energy and mental alertness; however, Korean researchers have been studying its topical benefits for years. Problem is, its molecular structure has created problems for topical use because it is too big to penetrate the skin, according to Henry E. Choi, general manager of the sales and marketing department, ACT. As a result, ACT created a technology that utilizes an enzyme to cut the two glucose molecules (that are attached to the ginseng for delivery purposes) in half, allowing the ginseng to penetrate the skin. ACT is expecting to triple its growth in China within the next couple years and has more international market expansions set for the near future, according to Choi.
Technico Flor Ltd. is offering an alternative to standard synthetic fragrances with its Natflor, an ECOCERT-certified essential oil, which, according to Sam Young sales director of Technico Flor, is meeting a market need. According to a survey conducted by Technico Flor, 83 percent of consumers surveyed said they want organic products, but only 37 percent are using organic products due to price. He also stated the resource for organic fragrances are comparatively narrow, and more research and development needs to happen in order to produce more types of organic scents. Natflor is one in three perfume material suppliers in Europe to be ECOCERT certified. Technico Flor also offers a biodegradable, eco-friendly perfume for household products—Eco-Label—which uses no synthetics. The company is also experimenting with nanotechnology that is helping the fragrance last longer (i.e., in a fabric softner, the fragrance lasts longer on clothes).
Honsea Sunshine Biotech produces an organic jasmine oil via an eco-friendly, all-natural extraction process: supercritical fluid CO2 extraction. Hosea was the first company in China to use this extraction process, according Jason Wei, sales manager of Honsea. The CO2 technology works through a process of extraction, separation and concentration, leaving no solvent residue behind. Hosea’s oil, used mainly for its fragrance and aromatherapy profile, has experienced most of its success in Europe, but has also seen growth in other markets as well. It is currently the largest producer of magnolia extract in China, according to Wei. As more requests have come in for additional organic products, Wei says Honsea plans to produce more organic ingredients to meet growing consumer demands.
Actichem, established in 1998 in the Southwest of France, has the fortunate task of working with grape vines in the Bordeaux region and their antioxidant ingredient, resveratrol. In 2003 to 2004, Actichem entered the cosmeceutical market and began developing resveratrol extract ingredients—Resveratrox, Vineatrol and Vineferol—for cosmeceuticals applications. It entered the Chinese market about a year ago with these three products, and at PCHi it introduced Vitisin®, a skin lightening ingredient extracted from grapevine roots, rather than their seed or skin, which is backed by two clinical studies: one on skin lightening and a second on hyperpigmented skin. According to Jean-Claude Izard, president of Actichem, Actichem hopes to increase production in both Japan and China over the next few years.
Although Naturex already made its mark in the Chinese market a few year back, this was its first year at PCHi. Its countless botanical offerings give them an edge in the market, as well as their commitment to offering the same consistency, quality and standard every time for every ingredient; no fluctuation of product quality, according to Guirec Rollando, sales director for East Asia, Naturex. Rollando said the Asian market has a demand for whitening agents, which Naturex does not currently offer; but keep an eye out for a new lightening ingredient from Naturex, as it takes them approximately two years to launch a new product after ex vivo, in vivo, in vitro testing, and R&D is complete.
Striving to link the farmer and formulator, Northstar Lipids develops locally sourced, natural plant lipids with a focus on creating greater strengths and relationships with the farmer, the grower, the formulator, etc., giving the whole supply chain a chance to get involved and formulators the advantage of sustainability, traceability, a low-carbon footprint and functionality. In more recent years, Northstar Lipids created its Bee Friendly program, in which certain plants have been identified as nectar providers for honey bees. Three years ago, Northstar started selling in China and within the past 12 months, its business in China has grown 82 percent, according to Chris Houghton, managing director, Northstar Lipids. Its Ultra Green ECO oil range gives formulators the organic advantage without the organic price, i.e., the oils are processed organically minus the certification, allowing them to offer “organic" at a lower price.
Next up? SupplySide East in Secaucus, N.J. We’ll see you there.