BANGKOK—A series of formulation workshops are set to give manufacturers a practical insight into how they can tackle common obstacles and improve their formulations at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia. The four half-day workshops taking place Nov. 3 to Nov. 4, 2011 will examine issues surrounding claim support and efficacy testing, skin lightening, formulating with fragrances, sensory science and optimizing cosmetic formulations digitally.
Stephen Weller, director of communications at the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) will lead the first workshop on Nov. 3—Formulating with Fragrances. The workshop will delve into the complexities surrounding formulating with fragrances, taking a look at the world of fragrance regulation. The recent changes at IFRA and what it means to the cosmetics and fragrance industry and its customer will also be discussed. Matthias Vey, Ph.D., scientific director at IFRA will then go on to outline the latest developments on the Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA) approach adopted by IFRA, offering an overview of the latest 46th Amendment to the IFRA Standards. There will also be an interactive touch and feel session from a leading fragrance house, exploring the latest trends as well as the sensory issues that go hand in hand with fragrance formulation.
Alain Khaiat from Seers Consulting will introduce the second workshop on Nov. 3—Claims Support – What’s New in Cosmetics Efficacy Testing. The workshop will give manufacturers advice and guidance on how to evaluate test results to support the claims of cosmetic products. Explaining the rationale behind the topic, he commented: “Consumers are more and more demanding when it comes to product efficacy data and regulators want to see supporting documents for the claims that are being made. R&D formulators therefore need to have more and better data to support the claims from ingredient suppliers or from their own testing. This workshop will examine why we need to support claims and what the requirements are."
Fabrice Perrin, director at Spin Control Asia will then go on to explain how cosmetics can improve the well-being and quality of life of consumers and Cecilia Li from Johnson & Johnson Asia Pacific Skin Testing Center will demonstrate how it is possible to achieve an attractive claim for whitening by using a multiplex clinical design. Concluding the claims support program, R.B. Mohile from C.L.A.I.M.S India (Clinical Aesthetics and Investigative Management Services) will ask the question: Which comes first, claims or efficacy testing?, arguing it could be possible to reverse the usual process and have efficacy testing driving the claims as opposed to the other way round.
Khaiat added: “It is vitally important that manufacturers are aware of what is needed to ensure the claim protocols are valid. Efficacy testing is essential in this industry and companies need to know how to do this properly for the best possible outcome. This workshop will furnish delegates with the information they need when it comes to cosmetic efficacy testing, as well as new insights on claim support."
The final day of the exhibition, Nov. 4, will play host to two further workshops. Organized by Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions—Sensory Science – Scientific Principles and Methodologies—will look at how the feel of cosmetic products differs between Asia and Europe, as well as how to formulate a specific skin-feel into a cosmetic formulation. Not only will the theory of different types of sensory testing be explained, but attendees will also be able to test out the products to feel the difference that these techniques can bring to their cosmetic business. By means of complex data analysis, Wiechers will explain how Asian products differ from their European counterparts and how it is possible to transform a successful European product into an equally successful Asian equivalent. This requires detailed knowledge of the sensory profiles of raw materials as well as an understanding of their influence in determining skin-feel.
The second workshop of the day will examine how to Optimize Cosmetic Formulations Digitally, as Wiechers explains: “There are so many factors to consider when formulating a cosmetic product that by the time it comes to the efficient delivery of an active ingredient, most formulators simply hope for the best. This hope-and-see mentality is not out of choice but because it is too difficult for most formulators to transform complex skin delivery theories into practical formulations. So this workshop will focus on how to get the most out of the active ingredient by using technology."
The session will begin with a discussion on the scientific principles underpinning the software package and will be followed by a demonstration of the ‘Formulation for Efficacy, the software’ computer program. Delegates will be shown how to identify the consequences of small formulation changes for the skin delivery of active ingredients, such as “Will this formulation be clinically effective?", “Which of my prototype formulations will deliver the active ingredient best?", and “What do I need to do if I want to fix a certain percentage of an ingredient into my formulation?". Those attending are also being invited to bring the structures of their own active ingredients along to the workshop which will then be formulated digitally for optimal skin delivery on the spot.
Cathy Laporte, marketing manager for in-cosmetics Asia concluded: “The Formulation workshops at in-cosmetics Asia have traditionally been extremely well-attended and have become an integral feature of the educational program. We have some very well-regarded experts lined-up to present so I would urge anyone involved in cosmetic formulation, experienced formulators or managers of cosmetic product development departments to book onto a workshop to ensure they get the most from their products in the long run."
in-cosmetics Asia takes place Nov. 2 to Nov.4, 2011at BITEC, Bangkok. For more on the educational program visit in-cosmeticsasia.com.