Acerola & Camu Camu—Hot Cosmeceutical Options

Formulators of cosmeceutical products are constantly searching for new ingredients that offer both innovation and efficacy. Two such emerging options in the cosmeceutical area are acerola and camu camu.

Acerola (Malpighia emarginata DC) is a wild bush grown mainly in Brazil, but also in Mexico, Central America and other South American countries. The acerola fruit is between 1 and 4 centimeters in size, containing three seeds and changing from green to yellow and red tones as it matures. It has a remarkably high vitamin C content and also contains carotenoids and bioflavonoids, other powerful antioxidants.¹

A 2008 study reported on the antioxidant activity, ascorbic acid and phenolic content in 10 exotic fruits from Brazil, and found acerola had the highest content of vitamin C and the greatest antioxidant activity.² As far as additional phytoactives, a 2007 study characterized the anthocyanins in acerola, reporting it has a high concentration of nonacylated glycosides, one form of anthocyanin and a potent antioxidant.³

Acerola may exert not only antioxidant effects, but also impact skin tone. A 2008 study looking at the effects of acerola on melanogenesis found crude polyphenol concentrated acerola extract significantly lightened the ultraviolet (UV) B-irradiated skin pigmentation of brownish guinea pigs.⁴ The skin-lightening effect of the acerola was partly attributed to the suppression of melanogenesis through the inhibition of tyrosinase activity in melanocytes. Thus, it can be postulated and has been clinically shown that acerola topically will also lighten skin by a similar mechanism.

Many companies have discovered the skin anti-aging and lightening properties of acerola. Among the new launches are Bren Cosmetics’ Action C Skincare, DHC Acerola Gel, The Face Shop’s acerola cream, and Ikove’s Rose Night Cream with acerola. Somang Essence and Sophyto Organics each also offer an acerola lightening and moisturizing mask.

The demand for another South American botanical—camu camu—in cosmeceutical products is also skyrocketing. It is the highest source of natural vitamin C currently known and it is very stable and effective when used topically. This Peruvian rainforest shrub grows along the Amazon River, and contains approximately 30 times more vitamin C than is found in an orange.

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