Formulating Effective Skin Lightening Products

Concerns among consumers about irregular pigmentation, whether due to a condition such as melasma or photoaging, has led to the development of products for skin lightening. However, as Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D., found in a review for GCI of actives used in such topical products, there are issues to be addressed to ensure efficacy and safety of such formulations.

For example, while hydroquinone has been the “gold standard” for topical skin lightening, there have been concerns about toxicity in the EU and Asia that have led to restrictions on its application. Instead, companies are turning to other options, such as mequinol, or enhancing the efficacy of ingredients via use of retinoids that can enhance the penetration of actives.

Other actives that show efficacy in the skin lightening area include ascorbic acid, licorice extracts, alpha lipoic acid, kojic acid, aloe vera derivatives or berry actives. Often, formulators will use synergistic combinations of ingredients to enhance results via different mechanisms of action—inhibiting tyrosinase or dispersing pigment distribution.

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