Amino Acids and the Natural Moisturizing Factor

Gesslein noted more personal care products will feature amino acids in their ingredient profile: "Individual amino acids, especially optimized combinations of amino acids, to deliver specific functions will continue to grow. Since these materials can be easily formulated in personal care products and produce real consumer perceptible effects, amino acids will play a key ingredient now and in the future."

Amino acids, lipids, ceramides, hyaluronic acid are similar in the way they serve as building blocks for the skin.

Lipids cannot penetrate the skin, so they provide a cover layer and protect skin from external environmental pollutants.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids composed of sphignolipids and fatty acids. They form bilayers that help the skin maintain moisture and recover from damage—especially good for the skin membrane.

Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan found in connective tissue and epithelial cells. It is used mainly as a topical moisturizer since its molecular weight is too large to penetrate the skin surface. It has an extremely high water retention capacity and can capture moisture internally and from the outside environment.

References

1. Schultz-Larson FV, et al. “Epidemiology of atopic dermatitis” (Immunol Allergy Clin North Am. 2002; 22:1-24).

2. Mclean, Irwin, et al. “Comprehensive analysis of the gene encoding filaggrin uncovers prevalent and rare mutations in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic eczema” (Nature Genetics. 2007; 39” 650-54).

3. Howell MD, et al. “Cytokine modulation of atopic dermatitis filaggrin skin expression” (J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2007; 120: 150-5).

4. Abrahamsson TR, et al. “Probiotics in prevention of IgE-associated eczema: a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial” (J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2007;119(5):1174-80).

5. Koch C, et al. “Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) supplementation in atopic eczema: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial” (Br J Dermatol. 2007; OnlineEarly: doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2007.08430.x).

6. Nakagawa N, et al. “Relationship between NMF (lactate and potassium) content and the physical properties of the stratum corneum in healthy subjects” (J Inv Dermat.2004; 122: 755-63).

7. Sakai S, et al. “Characterization of the physical properties of the stratum corneum by a new tactile sensor” (Skin Res Technol. 2000; 6(3): 128-134).

8. Rawlings AV, et al. “Moisturization and skin barrier function” (Dermat Ther. 2004; 17(1): 43-48).

9. Ballon G, et al. “Glutamine increases collagen gene trangascription in cultured human fibroblasts” (Biochim Biophys Acta. 1995; 1268(21): 311).

10. Dong KK, et al. “L-ergothioneine reduces UVA340-induced hydrogen peroxide in fibroblasts more efficiently than idebenone” (AGI Dermatics, 2007; presented at the 65^{th Annual Meeting of American Academy of Dermatology)}

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