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Amino Acids and the Natural Moisturizing Factor

Somlynn Rorie
03/25/2008

Skin care regimens tailored toward specific skin types and conditions have garnered interest among consumers who are leaning toward a more personalized approach in caring for their skin.

In an increasingly competitive marketplace, manufacturers are seeking the newest active ingredients, delivery systems and results that differentiate their products from the competition. The hot button resides in the most current research on amino acids and specific components of the skin, providing new opportunities and outlets for addressing pervasive skin conditions. Interestingly, the latest dermatologic research pulls back the layers and delves deep into the physiology and anatomy of skin. Instead of looking at solutions to these problems, researchers are uncovering the root causes behind dryness, dermatitis, allergies and reactions.

A FLESHY FOUNDATION

Skin consists of two main structural layers: the epidermis, the outer protective layer of the skin; and the deeper layer known as the dermis, which provides the skin’s structural support. The epidermis is made up of layers of cells in various stages of development, connected by protein bridges called desmosomes. At the base of the epidermis are reproductive cells known as basal cells. When these cells evolve and mature they move toward the outer skin layer, making room for new cells. As they reach the stratum corneum, the top layer of skin, the cells turn into corneocytes, cells that lack a nucleus and cellular structure. "Corneocytes are flat, hexagonal-shaped cells filled with water-retaining keratin proteins surrounded by a protein envelop and lipids," said Christina Marino, M.D., in a Washington State Department of Labor and Industries report, "Skin Physiology, Irritants, Dry Skin and Moisturizers." "The cellular shape and the orientation of the keratin proteins add strength to the stratum corneum. There are 10 to 30 layers of stacked corneocytes." She added stacked bilayers of lipids surround the cells in the extracellular space, which helps form the natural physical and water-retaining barrier of the skin.

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