Amino Acids and the Natural Moisturizing Factor

Yoichiro Sugimura, director of business development, Kyowa Hakko Kogyo, added: "Amino acids are the building blocks of protein. Skin is made up mostly of collagen, and collagen of protein. Hence, amino acids work as basic structure components of the skin."

According to in vitro and in vivo clinical research, Kyowa found a certain amino acid, L-hydroxproline (as Lumistor®, from Kyowa Hakko), stimulates collagen synthesis, increases skin moisture and has an anti-wrinkling affect. "In other words, it is not just a ‘passive’ building block, but a ‘proactive’ cosmeceutical, too," Sugimura said, adding L-hydroxproline works topically and internally to achieve an anti-wrinkling result.

Amino acids function on several levels. "Amino acids are important components of the skin and the NMF," Gesslein said. "They have various functions including the promotion of collagen production, modulating micro-circulation, and keeping the skin moisturized and supple. By working both on and in the skin, the effects can be maximized."

When used as ingredients within cosmetics, amino acids most often serve as humectants or water-binding agents. They’ve also been suggested to enhance the bioavailability of minerals, according to Albion Advanced Nutrition. However, recent discoveries have suggested amino acids may possess both antioxidant and wound-healing properties. AGI Dermatics, for example, released comparative data that claimed its L-ergothioneine, an exclusive natural amino acid used in topical applications, is a powerful antioxidant that protects against oxidative damage and reduces ultraviolet (UV)-induced hydrogen peroxide generation.⁹

Collagen, a key protein found in connective tissues, provides structure and strength to these tissues. Ajinimoto noted collagen actually consists of various amino acids and, when used as a cosmetic ingredient, keeps the skin supple. According to Ajinomoto, the administration of the amino acid arginine promotes the regeneration of skin due to its enhanced collagen synthesis in the dermis, and the involvement of glutamine and arginine may participate in the synthesis of collagen and elastin¹⁰—the bundles of protein that allow the skin to stretch and snap back to its original state.

The NMF factor continues to serve as inspiration for new research and ingredient innovations. While amino acids in general have been used in moisturizing creams and anti-aging properties for quite some time, combination amino acids hold promise as potential cosmeceutical ingredients. Kyowa, for example, is focusing on di-peptides, molecules comprised of two amino acids joined by a peptide bond. According to Sugimura, di-peptides yield a completely different physiological effect from that of the two component amino acids. Kyowa’s Alanyl-Glutamine acts as an energy source for cells, vitalizing the skin and offering collagen synthesis ability.

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