Witch hazel is commonly used for hemorrhoids; but it’s also serves as a wonderful natural treatment for acne. Witch hazel is an astringent produced from the leaves and bark of the North American witch hazel shrub (Hamamelis virginiana), which grows naturally from Canada to Florida, and Texas. This plant has been widely used for medicinal purposes by American Indians for centuries.1
Witch hazel is a flowering, deciduous shrub that grows 3 to 8 m tall. They are popular ornamental plants with clusters of rich yellow to orange-red flowers, which begin to expand in the autumn and throughout the winter. The fruit is a two-part capsule 1 cm long, containing a single 5 mm glossy black seed in each of the two parts. The capsule splits explosively in the fall, ejecting the seeds with sufficient force to fly for distances of up to 10 m, thus leading to its name "Snapping Hazel".2
Native Americans produced witch hazel extract by boiling the stems of the shrub and condensing the steam to produce a distillate. They used the distillate to treat sore muscles, cuts, insect bites, and other inflammations and tumors. Early Puritan settlers in New England adopted this remedy from the natives, and its use became widely established in the United States. Thomas Newton Dickinson, Sr., of Connecticut is credited with starting the commercial production of witch hazel extract during the 1870s.3
Witch hazel hydrosol is a strong antioxidant and astringent, which makes it very useful in fighting acne. It is often also used as a natural remedy for cuts and abrasions, sunburn, bruises, psoriasis, eczema, ingrown nails, sweating of the face, insect bites, poison ivy, and as an aftershave. Witch hazel helps to shrink and contract blood vessels,4 making it an ideal therapy for varicose veins, hemorrhoids, laryngitis and swimmer's ear.5
In its distilled form, witch hazel has long been recommended as an effective toner for oily skin and a remedy for acne. Witch hazel has disinfectant, astringent, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, tightening, and pH balancing properties. Use on the skin can reduce the bacteria, helping prevent inflammation and the formation of acne. Its tannins are cleansing to the skin, while tightening pores and acting as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Unlike many harsh commercial acne formulations, witch hazel is gentle and non-drying, reducing irritation of the skin with a numbing effect. It also does not disrupt the pH of the skin, which tends to cause irritation.6
Plain witch hazel may be applied to the skin straight from the bottle using cotton balls. It should be applied to the acne-infected skin twice a day. Witch hazel must never be taken orally.7 Overuse can cause dryness, redness, irritation, sensitivity and flakiness.8
The main constituents of witch hazel extract include tannin, gallic acid, catechins, proanthocyanins, flavonoids, essential oil, choline, saponins and bitters. The bark, leaves, and twigs of witch hazel are all high in tannins, which support its astringent properties. The procyanadins, resin and flavonoids help it work as a soothing, anti-inflammatory agent.9 In 2001, Swiss researchers discovered the proanthocyanidins in Hamamalis bark reduced transepidermal water loss and erythema formation, strongly increased the proliferation of the cells, and influenced the irritative processes significantly.10
German researchers studied the anti-inflammatory activity of Hamamelis distillate compared to chamomile cream, hydrocortisone 1 percent cream, and four base preparations.11 Hydrocortisone appeared superior to both Hamamelis vehicles, Hamamelis cream (without phosphatidylcholine (PC)) and chamomile cream. At 24 hours, UV-induced erythema was suppressed by low-dose Hamamelis PC-cream and hydrocortisone cream. Hydrocortisone appeared superior to both Hamamelis vehicles, hamamelis cream (without PC) and chamomile cream. Four to eight hours after stripping the horny layer, erythema was suppressed by hydrocortisone (P<0.05). Inflammation was also less pronounced following low-dose Hamamelis PC-cream and chamomile cream. Although Hamamelis PC-cream appeared less potent than hydrocortisone, the study results demonstrated an anti-inflammatory activity of Hamamelis distillate in a PC-containing vehicle.
However, seven years later, a separate controlled study at the Bioskin Institute in Hamburg, Germany, investigated the anti-inflammatory action of Hamamelis virginiana in 30 volunteers.12 Compared to the UVB suppression of the fields treated with other lotions (11 to 15 percent), erythema suppression ranged from approximately 20 percent at seven hours, to 27 percent at 48 hours in the Hamamelis-treated fields, providing evidence for witch hazel’s anti-inflammatory action.
A 2002 study assessed the antimicrobial activity of a topical dermatological preparation of Hamamelis distillate (90 percent) and urea (5 percent) in vitro and in vivo in 15 healthy volunteers.13 In the expanded flora test, Hamamelis distillate and urea demonstrated significant antimicrobial activity. The simple occlusion test showed the same tendency, but results were not significant. In the agar diffusion test, showed Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans were inhibited. In comparison with earlier studies of chlorhexidine digluconate and fuchsine using the same method, the antimicrobial activities of Hamamelis distillate and urea were relatively weak, supported by the weak inhibitory activity observed in the agar diffusion test. Researchers concluded, “Formulations of Hamamelis distillate and urea are mainly used for their anti-inflammatory, hydrating and barrier-stabilizing effects in dermatitis maintenance therapy. As bacterial colonization has a central role in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and intertrigo, the antimicrobial activity of such products is considered a welcome, added benefit.”
There are quite a few natural astringents and acne treatments that currently incorporate witch hazel extract, including astringents for face and body, and moisturizing lotions for acne.
Jeanette Jacknin, M.D., (JJMDSkinCare.com and DrJacknin.com) is a board-certified dermatologist. She is a well-respected physician, entrepreneur and author with a passion for nutricosmeceuticals and holistic dermatology. Dr. Jacknin’s is the author of, “Smart Medicine for Your Skin”, published by Penguin Putnam. She is available for consultation. Contact her at [email protected].
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