There are a range of ingredients in many so-called natural hair care products and it is often unknown exactly what they are and what they do to the hair and scalp. The primary ingredients in shampoos are called surfactants or surface-active-agents. These substances are capable of emulsifying oils and holding dirt in suspension so that they can be rinsed away with water. Soap and synthetic detergents or syndets are surfactants. There are four types of surfactants: anionic, amphoteric, cationic and non-ionic.
Anionic Surfactants
“Anionic” refers to the negative electrical charge these detergents have. They form the base of most shampoos, "natural" or otherwise. Most anionic surfactants claim to be "naturally derived" or "derived from coconut oil". But whatever the source, these type of surfactants may contain NDELA (N-nitrosodiethanolamine), one of the 180 or so identified nitrosamines and a potent carcinogen. Among the anionic surfactants that may contain NDELA or other nitrosamines are sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth/lauryl sulfate, and triethanolamin lauryl/laureth sulfate.
Amphoteric Surfactants
These are surfactants with both a positive and negative charge. They are generally milder than anionic surfactants. Many shampoos combine anionic and an amphoteric surfactant. One commonly used amphoteric surfactant is cocomidopropyl betaine; however, it is a potential allergen and has been associated with cases of dermatitis on the head and neck.
Non-Ionic Surfactants
These are surfactants that are synthetically manufactured from natural sources, but are electrically neutral and especially mild. Examples of these are coco glucoside or coco polyglucose.
Cationic Surfactants
These synthetic chemicals have a positive electrical charge. They contain a quaternary ammonium group and are often called "quats". These are used in hair conditioners, but originated from the paper and fabric industries as softeners and anti-static agents. Examples of cationic surfactants including stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and lauryl dimoniumhydrolysed collagen.
Cosmetic Anatomy
In examining so-called "natural" shampoos, it becomes questionable how "natural" the finished product really is. Consider an exclusive "olive" shampoo bought in health food stores. It costs around $14 for 150ml. The ingredient list reads: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, Aqua (water), Cocomido propyl betaine, Olea europaea (olive squalene), Quaternium 22, Arachis hypogaea (peanut oil), Parfum (fragrance), BHA, BHT, Propyl gallate, Citric acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Imidazolidinyl urea, Methychloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.
As mentioned earlier, the surfactants are not truly natural and may have toxic effects. While the olive oil squalene is an excellent moisturizer, and peanut oil serves as an emollient, the inclusion of synthetic fragrance, synthetic antioxidants and synthetic preservatives seems to undercut the desire to formulate a "natural" product.
The Natural Approach
The hair is mostly comprised of keratin—a sulfur containing protein. It contains 18 amino acids, including, most importantly, sulfur-containing cystine, which acts as the “bridge” in the helix-structure of the hair. Its strength and elasticity depends on these "bridges," which are destroyed by heat, chemicals, blow-drying, styling and coloring the hair. Hair that is falling out has a lower cystine and silica content than healthy hair. Herbals high in cystine and organic silica have been found to be important hair care ingredients. Horsetail has up to 7 percent silica and cystine, and coltsfoot also contains silica and cystine.
Instead of synthetic alternatives, formulators looking to develop natural hair care products can turn to herbs containing cystine for hair strength and flexibility; natural fatty acids, essential oils and vitamins to condition the hair; and natural soaps (such as olive oil castile) and plant saponins to gently cleanse without stripping the hair's natural oils. Developing complementary products such as an herbal rinse or natural conditioner can augment line extension. In developing a natural conditioner, look for herbs high in sulfur and silica such as horsetail, nettle, rosemary and sage, natural fatty acids and natural fatty alcohols (found in vegetable oils), and other healing and conditioning agents like panthenol (vitamin B5), lecithin, Aloe vera, and essential oils.
Narelle Chenery manufactures certified organic skin care, cosmetics and hair care. She is the creator of Miessence, the world's first certified organic skin care and personal care range. She is a passionate educator and activist for social and consumer change, speaking worldwide to business leaders, entrepreneurs, cosmetic industry professionals and government bodies. Narelle, a mother of three, has also written articles for leading health publications.