The market for delivery systems is growing rapidly. According to an article published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, the U.S. market for delivery systems has increased from $19 billion in 2000 to more than $41 billion in 2007. At the same time, skin care sales have topped $12 billion in the United States and are growing at 5 to 6 percent a year. But before skin care products can work their magic, all of these creams, lotions and gels must deliver their active components to the skin.
As the population continues to age, cosmetic chemists and formulators are putting an increasing emphasis on developing products that penetrate into the upper layers of the skin, to deliver a rich combination of peptides, antioxidants, enzymes, vitamins and botanicals. To effectively deliver these actives to the skin, cosmetic formulators can choose from a wide variety of systems and can also improve efficacy of the traditional actives. Consider the case of salicylic acid. It must be formulated at lower pH ranges to provide its optimal anti-acne effect; however, lower pH ranges are known to cause significant skin irritation. If the active were neutralized, it may be less effective. If an effective delivery system was used, it could improve efficacy.
This leads to the discussion of innovation and proof of claims, which becoming more important in brand success. To obtain these claims, cosmetics research is becoming more dependent on pharmaceutical delivery systems. These new delivery systems are specifically designed for a targeted function and utilize specific ingredients.
Many delivery systems are already approved by FDA, and it is easier to work with existing approved ingredients than try to get a new active or OTC ingredient approved. Instead, why not see how the old ingredient could work better.