CEDEX, France—According to a French study conducted by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, Achillea millefolium extract increased epidermal thickness, and improved the appearance of wrinkles and pores (Int J Cosm Sci. 2011;33(6):535-42).
Proopiomelanocortin (POMC)-derived peptides, such as adrenocorticotrophic hormone (ACTH) and beta-endorphin, have been shown to be synthesized in human epidermis where they modulate numerous skin functions. Because researchers have previously observed melanocortin receptor-2 and Mu-opioid receptor 1, the respective receptors for ACTH and beta-endorphin decrease with aging in human epidermis, they selected an active ingredient—A. millefolium extract—able to upregulate receptor expressions.
Researchers first evaluated the effect of A. millefolium extract on the expression pattern of various epidermal differentiation markers ex vivo in normal human skin biopsies using quantitative image analysis; and second evaluated its capacity to rejuvenate the appearance of skin surface in vivo.
A. millefolium extract improved expression profile of cytokeratin 10, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin in cultured skin biopsies, in addition to increasing epidermal thickness. In vivo, a two-month treatment with A. millefolium extract at 2 percent significantly improved the appearance of wrinkles and pores compared with placebo. Results were also directionally better than those of glycolic acid that was chosen as reference resurfacing molecule.