Antioxidants Support External, Internal Beauty

For the past two decades, consumers have been looking for natural approaches to maintaining a youthful look and extending their life spans. As consumers learn about free radicals and the damage they do to the body, they also learn about the importance of antioxidants for maintaining health and a youthful appearance. In fact, Baby Boomers are the driving force behind market growth of antioxidant-based products, as these consumers spend billions annually in an effort to stave off signs of aging.

The quest for a youthful look has increased the demand for products that slow the aging process and keep us looking young and fit. Skin care products that include botanical, or plant-based, materials can accomplish this. While such natural healing remedies have been used for thousands of years, today’s technology and science validates the efficacy of these products.

Botanical antioxidants are being incorporated into products for use both externally and internally, via dietary supplements. As consumers become more educated about the effects of external stressors such as pollution and UV radiation on the skin, topical protection products are in demand. Skin lightening products are also a growing category.

Antioxidants are a group of naturally occurring vitamins, minerals and enzymes found in plant foods. These vital substances help protect the body’s cells from free radicals, groups of unstable atoms looking to obtain electrons in order to become stable. They pull electrons off cell membranes, unleashing a vicious cycle of cell destruction known as a “free radical cascade.” In addition to causing various diseases, free radical damage activates an enzyme called metalloproteinase, which breaks down collagen—one of the major causes of wrinkles. Luckily, there are literally thousands of antioxidants ready to fight free radicals.

Many plant-sourced antioxidants can be categorized as carotenoids or flavonoids. Carotenoids are fat-soluble, offering protection for the fat-containing parts of the body, such as skin layers. Carotenoids also enhance the activity of other fat-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins A and E and coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10). Some of the best-known carotenoids are lycopene, beta-carotene and lutein. Lycopene, a red carotenoid derived from tomatoes, has been shown to contain strong protection capabilities against free radical damage. Flavonoids are water-soluble compounds—such as epigallocatechin (EGC) from green tea, and polyphenols found in grapeseed extract—that can offer significant antioxidant action. Curcumin, a powerful polyphenol sourced from turmeric, has more activity than vitamin E or A in protecting against DNA breakdown by free oxygen. It also serves as a potent anti-inflammatory.

As consumers become more aware of the potent remedies offered by nature, the cosmeceutical industry is striving to offer a range of products high in antioxidant/anti-aging ingredients. Novel ingredients are especially coveted, due to the perception of “new and improved.” Among the newer offerings available in the cosmeceutical market are the herb Pueraria mirifica and Muscadine grape.

For more than 500 years, people in southeast Asia have used the root of “White Kwao Krua” for its profound anti-aging properties. This root has been identified as Pueraria candollei var. mirifica, which belongs to the family Papilionaceae (Leguminosae). A paper translated from Siamese in 1931 mentions the use of this root to make the skin smooth “like a 6-year-old child,” support a 1,000-year lifespan, prevent parasite infection and enhance memory. The authors stated, “The ability of P. mirifica to produce a soft, youthful skin, and to turn white hair black, is stressed.”

Folklore further suggests the root is a “fountain of youth” that serves as an anti-wrinkle agent for aged and wrinkled skin; darkens white hair and increases hair growth; alleviates cataract problems; helps with memory loss; increases energy and vigor; and improves blood circulation, appetite and sleep disorders. It is perhaps not surprising that the name mirifica in Latin means miracle.

Modern scientific studies have further elucidated chemical components found in this plant, including phytoestrogens such as miroestrol and deoxymiroestrol, and isoflavonoids such as daidzin, genistein and puerarin. These substances have a high level of antioxidant activity, probably due to their ability to increase the cell protective substance called superoxide dismutase (SOD) (Arch Biochem Biophys. 1998 Aug. 15;356:133-141). Safety studies, including mutagenicity, dermal toxicity and LD-50, have shown no toxicity concerns (Med Sci. 2000;42:202). To ensure the most comprehensive profile of active constituents for P. mirifica, the location, age of plant, atmospheric conditions, drying process and storage conditions must be carefully monitored.

Topical uses of P. mirifica include breast creams (firming), eye gels (to reduce appearance of lines and wrinkles) and body creams (to reduce wrinkles).

The muscadine grape (Vitis rotundifolia) grows wild throughout the southeastern United States, where local residents recognize it as a hardy plant that grows prolifically along roadsides and in yards. In 1810, Dr. Calvin Jones named this plant Scuppernong, and the name is still used in local areas. The Georgia Agricultural Experiment Station and USDA have introduced a number of improved varieties that are commercially cultivated. Muscadine grapes have been used for centuries to prepare wines, jelly, preserves, syrup and sauce.

More recently, it was discovered the muscadine grape is significantly higher in antioxidants than other grape species, and muscadine-derived wine provides more than five times more resveratrol than ordinary red wines, over 40 mg/L compared to between 0.2 and 5.8 mg/L (Am J Enol Vitic. 1996;47(1):57-62). Resveratrol is rapidly becoming a buzz word in the health industry and is being highly touted for its anti-aging effects, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. It has also been shown in animal studies to activate genes that enhance a longer life span. In addition to resveratrol, muscadine grapes are very high in many other antioxidant compounds, including ellagic acid, catechin, epicatechin and gallic acid (J Agric Food Chem. 2005 Jul 27;53(15):6003-10). 

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