SSW08: Hot Ingredients Drive Cosmeceutical Market

LAS VEGAS—From cell-targeted compounds to powerful antioxidants, innovative ingredients are driving growth in the cosmeceutical market, according to several speakers at SupplySide West 2008.

Rebecca James Gadberry, YG Laboratories, discussed some cutting-edge options in the market. Scientists are turning to extremeophiles—members of the oldest domain of life—that thrive in extreme conditions of temperature, pH and more; these organisms have unique biochemistry and molecules that may be able to support humans in an increasingly more extreme world. Among the innovations are Trehalose, an antioxidant sugar, and Thermus Ferment, a heat-activated indirect antioxidant that can upregulate natural enzymatic activity. Additional new developments include products that can stabilize DNA, such as telomeres, and options that enhance mitochondrial lifespan and health, protecting against photoaging and endogenous oxidative stress.

In another presentation, Jeanette Jacknin, M.D., outlined her top 12 hot products for cosmeceutical formulation. Exotic fruits such as pomegranate, coffeeberry, sea buckthorn, acai, goji and mangosteen were among the high-scoring antioxidants, which also deliver specialty phytonutrients, vitamins and even essential fatty acids (EFAs). She touted different types of algae—green or blue-green for collagen and elastin production, brown for anti-aging and signs of cellulite, and red as a binder. Also on tap were soy for its ability to topically reverse signs of aging and skin moisture levels, and rooibos with its unique polyphenol aspalathin, which exerts anti-allergenic and anti-inflammatory properties.

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