Anti-Aging Peptides

Since much research points to the potential of orally applied proteins and peptides affecting anti-aging skin properties, oral collagen ingestion is receiving increasing attention from the beauty food and beverage market. Data about intestinal absorption and accumulation in cartilage points to effective delivery via oral ingestion.

Furthermore, studies have shown daily ingestion of 10 g collagen peptide can affect adult women’s skin properties, such as water absorption and hydration. In animal studies, an increased density of collagen fibrils could be observed. However, further investigations, including clinical trials, are necessary to confirm these observations. The origin as well as processing may influence the collagen-type action.

Rousselot has been performing intensive research to develop a food supplement for the nutricosmetic market. The Beautydrink powder contains the hydrolysed type I collagen Peptan™, with all essential amino acids except tryptophan. The product is claimed to rejuvenate and redensify the skin with an intake of 5 to 10 g/d over a period of 30 to 60 days.

It cannot be over-emphasized that being functionally specific is an important characteristic of anti-aging ingredients and skin care formulations. This is why no single emollient makes the perfect moisturizer for all skin types and all occasions; why no single antioxidant will, by itself, neutralize all free radicals; and why no single peptide will perform all the functions in the cell and the intercellular matrix.

Efficient skin care products have to be applied continuously, because the skin is restoring the previous treatment conditions. Intensive research into long term effects and control circuits of elderly skin is ongoing. It must be clarified how peptides act in efficient complexes beyond in vitro or ex vivo data, dependent upon the ingredient concentration, modification as well as the product formulation itself by well-documented placebo-controlled clinical trials.

Dr. Joerg Gruenwald is president and Dr. Anja Dahten is senior consultant at analyze & realize ag (Analyze-Realize.com), a Berlin-based specialized product development, research and consulting company for nutraceuticals, herbal medicines and functional foods. Contact the authors at [email protected] and [email protected].

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