Ashland Specialty 'Goes Big' at in-cosmetics


What's the saying? Go big or go home? Well what about going home big (does that exist? haha), because that's what Ashland Specialty Ingredients will do after in-cosmetics Barcelona comes to end. The company introduced three groups of biofunctional products:

For Anti-Aging …

Telosense™ biofunctional, for anti-aging skin care apps, is a special complex of hydrolyzed yeast and soy proteins designed to help preserve telomeres, which cap and protect cell chromosomes. Research has shown telomeres, a repeating sequence of nucleotides measuring thousands of base pairs in length, play an important role in cell division, as they help preserve DNA information.

Proof? A double blind, placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated the visible effects of Telosense biofunctional on skin hydration and the appearance of wrinkles. A panel of 15 women ages 33 to 53 was studied applying either a placebo or a 1-percent Telosense biofunctional formula around their crows-feet area twice a day for 56 days. According to Ashland's global marketing director, Joel Mantelin, “Telosense biofunctional limited the appearance of aged skin and reduced the appearance of wrinkles," noting a cellular approach to aging may be the most effective and efficient skin care strategy.

Additionally, a series of three in vitro observations indicated Telosense biofunctional's efficacy for at low-use levels.

For Skin Care …

Peptide Q10™ biofunctional is a specially bioengineered peptide shown to boost endogenous synthesis of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) production in cells, according to in vitro studies. The novelty of Ashland's new technology lies in penetration, whereas traditional CoQ10 application via external delivery may not fully restore this lipid-soluble substance within the epidermal layer of skin.

Proof? A double blind, placebo-controlled clinical study confirmed Peptide Q10 biofunctional (at 0.5 percent) reduces facial wrinkles and fine lines. A panel of 10 women, ages 48 to 59, applied the peptide twice per day around the crows-feet area for 28 days. Peptide Q10 biofunctional showed a noticeable effect in helping panelists look younger. As part of the evaluation, cosmetic scientists examined the treated skin using software to measure and compare roughness parameters on silicon replicas. Comparisons of clinical pictures and panelist self-evaluation also demonstrated Peptide Q10 biofunctional visibly reduced the signs of aging.

Another perk is its ability to protect against UV damage. A study conducted by Ashland suggested skin under UVA stress could benefit from a little help of a peptide friend—Peptide Q10 biofunctional (at 0.5 percent). When compared with a control, the peptide limited the production of free radical superoxides. This effect may also be true with UVB rays.

For Hair Care …

And finally … Go big and go home with big hair thanks to Ashland's series of biofunctional ingredients for healthier, fuller hair—BiotHAIRapy™. 

  • Procataline™ biofunctional, a special pea extract, is designed to combat oxidative stress by helping to maintain high levels of protein expression in hair follicles ex vivo. In vitro studies have shown it helps maintain high levels of select proteins such as p63, a protein associated with epidermal tissue renewal. The same formula is shown in vitro to decrease caspase 3 expression, a direct cause of hair-cell death. Procataline biofunctional is also shown in vitro to boost catalase expression, an antioxidant enzyme that may help preserve the structure of hair following UV and environmental exposure.
  • Chromafend™ biofunctional, a special extract of flax seed, helps boost in vitro tyrosinase expression and other essentials required for the protection of natural hair color. Research shows it helps to boost essential protein expressions for protecting natural hair color, as demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies. The principle proteins targeted are tyrosinase and TRP1 expressions to assist in the production of melanin. A total of six protein expressions studied in vitro were boosted to help favor melanin production, synthesis, processes and transfer mechanisms.
  • Follisync™ biofunctional, a breakthrough formula containing vicia faba seed extract, has been designed to target in vitro protein expression in the dermal papillae, which is believed to play an important role in orchestrating cellular functions that support a healthy hair growth cycle. Research shows the hair growth cycle may be linked to CLOCK genes, which Follisync biofunctional may enhance in vitro to help regulate hair in the anagen phase. Specifically, the technology targets CLOCK protein expression in the dermal papilla area of hair follicles. Research also shows the dermal papillae—cells that send out signals to nearby keratinocytes to multiply and form the hair shaft during the growth phase (anagen)—plays a vital role in hair formation, growth and cycling.