Silab ~ Artichoke Extract for Menopausal Skin


BRIVE CEDEX, France—Silab launched an active ingredient derived from artichoke leaves to address the loss of elasticity, dryness and deepening of wrinkles associated with menopausal skin. Menofit (INCI: Cynara scolymus [artichoke leaf extract]) is said to normalize keratinocyte growth by restoring epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR) expression and maintain the structure of the dermal matrix by stimulating the synthesis of matrix components and limiting matrix break down. These two actions are said to maintain skin thickness, increase hydration and smooth wrinkles.

After testing, the company reported that the expression of mRNA coding for EGFR by keratinocytes from menopausal skin was reduced by 36 percent in comparison to keratinocytes from non-menopausal skin. At 0.25 percent, the active was said to increase EGFR expression in menopausal keratinocytes by 28 percent.

The active was also tested at 0.5 percent on menopausal fibroblasts, after which the company found it to limit the production of MMP-1 (which breaks down collagen I and III fibers) induced by UVA by 57 percent. At 2 percent, the active was found to stimulate the synthesis of collagen I by fibroblasts in menopausal skin by 238 percent.

To test the active's effect on skin thickness, it was incorporated at 3 percent into an emulsion and applied twice a day for 56 days. It was found to increase the thickness of cutaneous tissue of menopausal subject by 6.4 percent. The 3 percent emulsion was also applied twice-daily for 14 days. This emulsion was shown to increase the water content of menopausal skin 3.7 percent. Finally, the active was found to decrease the volume of wrinkles by 11.3 percent in menopausal skin. The ingredients is recommended for mature facial and body care applications.