BARCELONA, Spain—This year's in-cosmetics, taking place in Barcelona, Spain, April 17 t0 19, 2012, is gearing its in-focus feature around solar beauty, one of the most challenging market segments in the beauty industry.
"Some say innovating in sun care is like formulating in extreme conditions; here, all the usual formulation and marketing constraints—stability, allergy, sensitivity, regulation, aging process, competition, sensorial properties and consumer education—seem to apply with acute strength," said Jacques Sebag, director, Re-Source!. "Over the next few years, it is likely these challenges will get even tougher to overcome. With the SPF race topping 50 in Europe and now in the United States, brands will need to find new ways to differentiate themselves from one another, which means more daring textures and super active anti-ageing formula."
This has been illustrated, according to Sebag, by a host of products launched this past summer in Europe. Brands have been introducing products that are as not only great UV protectors, but also summer boosters that enhance the seasonal experience.
- Ambre Solaire reintroduced its sun-tanning oil in 2010 and then launched a new SPF 30 version in the summer of 2011.The brand also launched Clear Protect +, a protective body spray with SPF 50.
- Nivea also launched its Invisible Protection Spray and Vichy engaged ‘sensually’ with a sun-care oil boasting SPF 40.
The protection of cell DNA and stem cells means sun-care products can claim to be anti-aging, thereby creating a bridge with classical beauty products. Specifically adapted to phototypes I and II, the Very High Protection Emulsion by Avene claims efficient protection of DNA. The brand has worked in collaboration with the CEA in Grenoble to study how SPF 50 cream is capable of reducing the appearance of characteristic markers of DNA mutation induced by UVA and UVB. The results represent a milestone in establishing a correlation between SPF and DNA protection.
Hyper-segmentation, highly sensorial textures and products with strong anti-aging benefits mean sun-care products can be classed as genuine beauty products; however, some of the technologies used in recent innovations are being questioned, Sebag noted.
"Nano-particles, for instance, have opened up new perspectives in terms of feel and transparency," he said. "However, the ingredients are now prompting concerns across the industry. In the United States, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) urges consumers to avoid mineral-based sunscreens sold as powders or sprays because they could inhale nanoparticles with unknown consequences. In France, until further studies are conducted on skin penetration and inhalation risks, the AFSSAPS does not recommend either sunscreens containing nanoscale TiO2 on damaged or sun-induced erythema (sunburn) or sunscreens containing nano TiO2 in spray forms on the face and in closed rooms. Last year Kobo took the step of launching a non-nano UV filters in response to consumer concerns."
Solar beauty, the in-focus program, will provide a full-scale innovation platform designed to help industry players evaluate the latest developments and anticipate future trends. The program will include a dedicated scientific conference, two panel discussions transcending scientific and marketing boundaries, a Solar Trail allowing visitors to easily identify exhibitors’ innovations on the show floor, a special feature area to trigger new ideas and refresh views on solar beauty, and a dedicated section in the Innovation Zone (run by Mintel Beauty & Personal Care).
