LAS VEGAS—Consumers are more agreeable to technology mixed in with their skin care as the aging population becomes more youth obsessed and willing to take more drastic measures to reduce the gray. Product makers have responded; some are partnering with physicians to launch skin-care lines, and some are using more dermatologic procedures and technologies. Karen Young, CEO, The Young Group, disused this emerging trend as well as possible regulatory backlashes in “Medicine and Skincare: Where do they Intersect? How do they Interact?" at SupplySide West.
Humans trying to defy age is nothing new, as Young pointed out medieval alchemists hunted in vain for the Philosopher’s Stone, and industrial-age “quacks" got rich off patent elixirs. Today, regulatory agencies force sticker standards, but the science behind anti-aging products is much stronger than it used to be.
In fact, high-tech skincare and medicine continue to converge with emerging technologies playing with ideas of synthetic DNA, biomarking, pharmacogenetics, genome sequencing, stem cells, proteomics and cell communication. Products not only tout cosmetic benefits, Young noted, but more are making claims of strengthening the immune system, repairing DNA, reducing brown spots and reducing wrinkles.
Because of the beauty industry’s history of marketing hype with little substance, cosmeceutical companies must prove their credibility to consumers, as well as to regulatory agencies. Yet, this hurdle hasn’t stopped many beauty and pharmaceutical companies from joining forces. Young gave the examples of such partnerships and products that have meet success in this market, including Allergan (Prevage and Latisse), Valeant (Kinerase) and Stiefel Laboratories (Revaléskin). She added that Lauder bought Biotech Lab AGI Dermetics and produced Remergen, which has research demonstrating DNA repair, solar impact on the immune system and cell signaling.
FDA is not keeping quiet, however as she pointed out the agency has seized some cosmeceuticals it deemed were unapproved drugs.
Product manufacturers, ingredient suppliers and regulatory agencies will have to navigate this new trend as the science continues to flourish. Young asked audience members to imagine a time when consumers can visit a clinic for annual genetic check up, and have their DNA repaired or “euthanized." Topical application products may even be able to influence gene expression by stimulating or inhibiting the expression of genes not operating optimally.
Everybody ages, and most everyone wants to avoid it. With new science, Young said we may be on the brink of find the fountain of youth.