SEOUL, Korea—Researchers at Yonsei University, Korea, reported retinyl retinoate-treated wrinkles improved compared with wrinkles treated with a placebo or retinol (Brit J Dermatol. 2010;162(3):497-502). Photoaged skin can be treated with retinoids, which are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. However, these are photounstable and can cause skin irritation, which is a major limitation in their use in general cosmetics. Retinyl retinoate, which is an ester of all-trans retinoic acid (RA) and all-trans retinol, has reduced toxicity due to blocking of the carboxyl end group of RA and higher skin regeneration activity than retinol.
Two clinical studies with 46 Korean women with periorbital wrinkles, who were not pregnant, nursing or undergoing any concurrent therapy, were conducted. In the first clinical study, the efficacy of retinyl retinoate was compared with placebo. Twenty-four patients completed a 12-week trial of 0.06 percent retinyl retinoate applied twice daily to one side of the face and a placebo applied to the other side. In the second clinical study, the efficacy of retinyl retinoate was compared with retinol. Twenty-two patients completed an eight-week trial of 0.06 percent retinyl retinoate applied twice daily to one side of the face and 0.075 percent retinol applied to the other side.
Retinyl retinoate applied twice daily was significantly more effective than a placebo or retinol in treating periorbital wrinkles. Importantly, no severe side-effects were observed. Also, skin replica analysis indicated significant improvements in retinyl retinoate-treated skin in both studies, especially in average roughness.