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Consumers Seeking Nutricosmetics with Multifunctional Benefits

Bruce Abedon, Ph.D.
03/11/2009

The market for anti-aging products is expanding rapidly as aging baby boomers seek novel methods to slow the passage into old age. At the same time, younger adults in their 20s and 30s are also becoming interested in preventive anti-aging products to delay the onset of many age-related conditions. Within the anti-aging market segment, beauty-from-within cosmeceuticals (nutricosmetics) are becoming very popular. These orally ingested functional products promote youthfulness by targeting and reversing specific physiological processes that are normally associated with aging, such as the irreversible breakdown of cells and tissues. Because of heightened awareness of the benefits of natural ingredients, many beauty-from-within products now contain vitamins, phytonutrients from botanicals, and other novel, natural ingredients to achieve these results. These anti-aging nutraceuticals may take the form of dietary supplements or have applications in functional foods and beverages.

Because so many aging-related conditions result from the breakdown of biological molecules by free radicals, the vast majority of beauty-from-within products currently sold contain antioxidants. Free radicals are reactive oxygen and nitrogen species that form due to the body’s internal physiological processes, such as mitochondrial activity, and also as a result of exposure to external factors like ultraviolet (UV) light and chemical pollutants. When free radicals strip electrons from essential biological molecules such as proteins, lipids and DNA, the molecules become unstable and are eventually destroyed, resulting in accelerated aging. By destroying free radicals, antioxidants protect cells and help maintain their integrity, thus slowing the aging process. Examples of antioxidants used in oral anti-aging products include vitamins (A, C and E), fatty acids like alpha-lipoic acid, and botanicals such as green tea.

Superior anti-aging products, however, should not rely exclusively on antioxidant protection as the only mechanism of action that promotes efficacy. Utilization of a combination of physiological mechanisms of action is essential because the aging process is multifaceted. These might include: 1) the promotion of skin health and appearance, since the most visible signs of aging occur in the skin; 2) anti-inflammatory action, because many chronic diseases are associated with inflammation; and 3) an anti-stress component, as stress compounds the aging process in many ways.

The number one cause of aging of the skin is exposure to UV light. Use of sunscreens or avoidance of the sun can reduce exposure, but the vast majority of people receive unhealthy levels of UV light, particularly during the summer months. UV exposure promotes aging in several ways. Storage proteins in the skin release iron when UV light hits it, catalyzing the formation of free radicals that destroy molecules like collagen. This protein maintains the strength and integrity of the dermal matrix.

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