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Superfruits are Fueling Nutricosmetic, Personal Care Market

by Alissa Marrapodi Comments
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Guess what? Superfruits aren’t only advantageous to internal health, but external health, too, i.e., the skin. “With the backing of scientific data, superfruits can offer incredible health benefits making it a nutraceutical ingredient in skin care breakthroughs," said Kristine Carey, vice president of marketing for MyChelle Dermaceuticals. “Because what we apply topically gets absorbed into our bloodstream—up to 60 percent—it is becoming a popular option in skin care, where consumers are seeking out remedies for their skin issues that also offer a boost to their overall health."
And the good news is sales are up; and although some categories are waning off, others are flourishing. SPINS reported (52 week ending Jan. 23, 2010) the superfruit category in both the conventional and natural channels experienced a 15.7-percent increase from 2008 to 2009, increasing from $252 million to just shy of $292 million. Acai saw the largest increase in sales from 2008 to 2009, with a 30.5-percent increase, topping out at $168.9 million. And, pomegranate and mangosteen experienced the largest drop in sales—an 8.9-percent and 12.9 percent decrease, respectively.
Mintel’s GNPD report, “New food and drink products with functional beauty benefits claim" (January 2007 to December 2009), said many trends are moving transglobally, noting the popularity of antioxidant superfruits is spreading from West to East. Mintel’s report also named the top 10 ingredients used in nutricosmetics; fruit and fruit products were number two. The top three, from highest to lowest, were micronutrients and related products, fruit and fruit products, and sliding in last were phytochemicals. Kline Group also listed a few ingredients lauded for their advantages physiologically, one being grapes for their antioxidant and detoxifying effects.
From firming to hydrating and moisturizing, superfruits offer a full palate of skin health benefits. MyChelle Dermaceuticals uses pomegranates and cranberries, among other fruits in its skin care line. “Pomegranate is rich in naturally occurring fruit acids, is a great gentle exfoliant and has two to three times more antioxidant capacity than red wine and green tea, which is attributed to elevated polyphenol content; and works as an antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and astringent," Cary said. She also noted cranberries provide antibacterial effects as well, and nourish the skin while protecting it from free radical damage.
MyChelle’s G2 Instant Firming Serum—Insta Lift™—uses Lycium barbarum goji berry fruit extract, which contains glycopeptides that may improve the skin’s elasticity and reduce fine lines and wrinkles, according to Carey. Goji also contains high amounts of beta-carotene, more than carrots; and more than 19 amino acids, as well as vitamin B1, B2, B6 and vitamin E.
A 2010 study found orally consumed goji berry juice could provide skin photo-protection and skin inflammation as a result of a sunburn.1
Jeanette Jacknin, M.D., a board-certified and licensed dermatologist, confirmed the use of superfruits as a welcomed inclusion in personal care products in her article in Functional Foods magazine. A study conducted on acerola fruit extract found it significantly lighten the UVB-irradiated skin pigmentation of brown guinea pigs.2 Jacknin touted buriti oil (from a palm fruit) as an excellent source of oleic and essential fatty acids, noting a 2009 study that found it possesses a naturally occurring SPF that filters and absorbs UV rays, helping to prevent UV-induced skin cancer.
Companies like XANGO developed Glimpse® Topical Skin Nutrition, a proprietary formula with fermented ingredients from the mangosteen pericarp; and Juni™ Gentle Family Care, a bath and body line with shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, body bar, hand lotion and hand refresher—all formulated with mangosteen.
“Superfruits will likely continue to be an important source of skin health for dermaceutical-grade skin care products into the future," Carey said.

 

 

References:

1. Reeve VE et al. “Mice drinking goji berry juice (Lycium barbarum) are protected from UV radiation-induced skin damage via antioxidant pathways" Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2010 Apr;9(4):601-7

2. Hanamura T, et al. Skin-lightening effect of a polyphenol extract from acerola (Malpighia emarginata DC) fruit on UV-induced pigmentation. Biotechnol Biochem 2008 Dec;72(12)3211-8.

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