Ascorbic Acid Supports Antioxidant Effects

SAO PAULO, Brazil—In a recent in vivo study published in Skin Research and Technology (DOI:10.1111/j.1600-0846.2008.00288.x), vitamin C as ascorbic acid (AA) had the best antioxidant effect compared to its derivatives, magnesium ascorblyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate(ATIP). Human volunteers daily applied several formulations on their forearm skin daily for four weeks. In an aqueous system, AA had the best antioxidant potential, and MAP was more effective than ATIP, whereas the lipid system ATIP was more effective than MAP. All formulations enhanced stratum corneum moisture after four weeks compared to baseline; however, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in transepidermal water loss. MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio suggesting action in the deeper layers of the skin.

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