Soothing Inflammation with Botanical Ingredients

"It has excellent anti-inflammatory and cell-renewing properties, along with an SPF-boosting ability," Delisle explained. She added in-house studies showed Phytoplenolin "was very effective as a cell renewal agent at comparatively low concentrations without the drawbacks of alpha-hydroxy-acids."

THE ROLE OF ALOE

Aloe vera, which has been used for centuries on burns and wounds, has carved a niche for itself in the cosmeceutical industry, thanks to its soothing and moisturizing properties. Ken Jones, chief science officer, Aloecorp, said: "As science has begun to elucidate the many biological actions of aloe, evidence supports the topical uses of aloe for treatment of burns, wound healing, inflammation, and the role of the immune system in skin health in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals." Aloe has been proven to be an effective moisturizer in cosmetics, helping to reduce inflammation. The Laboratory of Cosmetic Technology in Brazil studied skin conditions in terms of the water content of the stratum corneum and its transepidermal water loss when using aloe-laden cosmetics with different amounts of aloe (Dal’Belo et al. Skin Res Technol, 2006). Skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application, and after one- and two-week periods of daily application. After a single application, only formulations supplemented with 0.25 percent and 0.50 percent of Aloe vera extract increased the water content of the stratum corneum, while after the two-week period application, all formulations containing the extract had the same effect. It was concluded Aloe vera extract is a natural, effective ingredient for improving skin hydration, possibly through a humectant mechanism. Consequently, it may be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also as a complement in the treatment of dry skin. Another study found aloe-infused gloves worn by health care workers helped prevent dry, chapped hands, caused by frequent hand washing (Ford et al. Nurs Times, 2007).

CLEARING UP WITH COSMETICS

Acne is a major player in skin inflammation, and companies are now infusing acne-fighting ingredients into their formulations, creating dual-role cosmetics. Coleus oil has recently been studied as a new ingredient for the cosmeceuticals world. The oil is derived from the roots of Coleus forskohlii, an herb belonging to the mint and lavender family and a native to India, Burma and Thailand. The oil’s antimicrobial properties were recently discovered, and it has been shown to be useful in topical preparations. Muhammed Majeed, Ph.D., founder, Sabinsa Corp., said: "A specific composition of the oil, prepared by a proprietary patented process, was found to be particularly effective against Propionibacterium acnes, the microorganism implicated in acne. In addition, this composition was found to be active against other microbes known to be associated with skin infections and eruptions." Studies have found coleus oil to "more effectively inhibit the growth of skin pathogens including Propionbacterium acnes, associated with acne; Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterial strain found in infected wounds and skin eruptions including acne; Staphylococcus epidermidis, a bacterial strain occurring in a variety of opportunistic bacterial skin infections and in acne, than the well-known tea tree oil" (Nishijima et al. J Dermatol., 2000). Companies have found coleus extract is safe to use in cosmetic formulations; it does not irritate the skin; and its pleasant aroma easily blends with a range of compositions.

TRIED AND NEW

In keeping with the consumer demand for effective formulas that fight inflammation, companies are continuously developing and researching new and innovative ingredients.

• Broccoli Sprout Extract—Researchers found the degree of skin redness caused by UV rays, an index of the inflammation and cell damage caused by UV radiation, was markedly reduced in broccoli sprout extract-treated skin. Unlike a sunscreen, the extract works inside cells by increasing the production of protective enzymes that defend against UV damage. The protection lasts for several days, even after the extract is no longer present on or in the skin (Fahey et al. John Hopkins University, Oct. 2007).

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