Empowering the Skin Matrix

Both omega-3 and -6 are essential for skin. Ingesting increased omega-3s and 6s is helpful, but the skin is not always first on the needy list for these fats, so a surplus is needed in order for the skin to get its share. Klein noted the skin does not have the enzymes to break down these essential acids and disperse them throughout the body, so any omega fatty acid material applied topically will stay in the skin.

AAK stated its Lipex Omega 3/6 is an optimized blend of omega-3 and -6 in a 1-to-7 ratio, which has been determined by nutritionists to offer the best balance for the skin. Lipex Omega EPO is high in omega-6 linoleic acid—a major building block of skin lipids ceremides and cholesterol—from evening primrose oil, which is also known for being an excellent nutrient for more mature skin where intensive moisture boosts are needed due to its high levels of gamma-linolenic acid. Omega Passiflora, based on the passion flower, also contains a high level of omega-6 linoleic acid.

Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize

The polysaccharide content of the skin is responsible for skin hydration and water binding within the skin, as well as for skin repair and skin renewal. Moisturizing is not as simple as bringing moisture/water to the skin, especially when it features detergents that strip the skin of its natural protective barrier, which is provided by lipids and oils. As the skin matrix helps hold onto water in the skin—the end goal of moisturizing—it is equally important that a quality moisturizer offer ingredients that can help preserve or restore the skin matrix elements.

Shea butter is a popular moisturizing ingredient that does just that. It increases fibroblast production and production of ceremides, a major ingredient in the lipid bilayer.

In fact, the tri-terpenes in shea butter may boost not only fibroblasts, but also keratinocyte (epidermal cell) production. "Especially in mature skin, this boost in skin cell generation is an important factor in keeping skin looking young and healthy," Klein reasoned.

Jarchem reported its shea butter is rich in bio-active tri-terpene esters, such as lupeol and amyrin cinnamates, that provide numerous benefits including anti-inflammatory activities and UVB protection.

Ursolic acid is also credited with increasing fibroblast activities, in addition to supporting the ceramide layer of the skin's moisture barrier. Derived from various herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, ursolic acid is a bit of a skin panacea, showing additional benefits such as suppressing UV-induced free radicals, protecting against lipid peroxidation and even inhibits tumor by way of anti-inflammatory activities relative to skin carcinogens.  AGI said its Mesopheres product features ursolic acid in liposomes that stimulate lipid production to improve the skin barrier and moisturize skin from the inside.

Deep in the skin is where the healthful glow and smooth, supple appearance are born and protected. Caring for the structural components of the skin matrix and their protective, tensile and elastic properties will help resist the effects of aging and the modern lifestyle and environment.

Test Skin Matrix in a Pinch

Daniel Yarosh, Ph.D.: "Using thumb and forefinger, pinch the skin on your cheek and pull. If you can’t easily bring your fingers together, you have good skin matrix.  If you release and you can see the shape of the pinch for an instant after, you have bad skin matrix."

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