The Rise of Cosmeceuticals, "Naturaceuticals" and "Botaniceuticals"

Additionally, more Americans are going under the knife or getting botox injections in an attempt to combat the wrath of wrinkles and sagging skin. Cosmeceutical products such as StriVectin-SD have adopted the "better than botox" slogan and are positioned as an alternative to plastic surgery. Freeze 24-7 and Athena’s 7-Minute Lift claim to use the latest developments in cosmeceutical skincare technology to offer a safe alternative to invasive cosmetic procedures.

Heritage is the Hook

Beauty products are increasingly following a program approach regarding product application. This is more credible among salon brands and cosmeceutical brands, given their expertise in medicine or dermatology. Maria Galland Silhouette Body Sculpturing Concentrate is an intensive 28-day anti-cellulite treatment that claims to make problem areas such as the stomach, waist, bottom and thighs look firmed. Cosmeceuticals that use “dosage” to enhance their medical positioning include BeautiControl's Cell Block-C Intensive Multivitamin Face Serum, which comes in capsules that are applied once a day, and Murad's Age Reform Intensive Resurfacing Peel with Durian Cell Reform, which is available in a container of 12 x 0.17-fl. oz bottles, mimicking a medical prescription and constituting a four-week course of treatment.

Cosmeceuticals are also gaining ground when it comes to innovative offerings for skin conditions that people otherwise visit the doctor or dermatologist to treat, such as acne, hair loss, enlarged pores or pigmentation. Rodan + Fields’ Unblemish Acne Benzoyl Peroxide Treatment targets acne, Kemon Liding’s Life Poly Vital System prevents hair loss, and Dermelect Cosmeceuticals Targeted Solutions' Self-Esteem Beauty Sleep Serum claims to reduce the appearance of pores. Age spots are the target for Visoanska's High Light Solution Brightening Power Essence, which also claims to address redness or pigment problems.

There is a striking difference between personal care products for men and women, and this is largely due to biological and hormonal differences that may change how women feel about their appearance. UK research conducted by Mintel reveals a man’s main appearance concern is being overweight. As a result, there are fewer male-specific cosmeceutical brands; however, in 2008, Zirh Platinum, a new high-end men's skin care line, was launched, based on formulas that are said to merge cosmeceutical science with the best in botanicals.

Hormonal shifts resulting from periods, pregnancy and menopause play a significant role in the concerns women may have. Women are more likely to become aware of how their bodies change during pregnancy and childbirth, which is driving demand for pharmaceutical products with cosmetic benefits for their bodies. As a result, doctor and physician brands such as Rodan + Fields, DERMAdoctor, Dr. Murad and M.D. Skincare's Dr. Dennis Gross range benefit from their association with medical professionals.

Interestingly enough, younger women are more taken in by the claims of cosmeceuticals and almost four in 10 women in the United Kingdom believe it is better to prevent wrinkles than try to get rid of them later. Cosmeceutical manufacturers have the potential to target this impressionable consumer group, by launching an “insurance-policy” range of products that could prevent or slow the natural signs of aging. It leaves us to wonder: could the next generation of cosmeceuticals target teens who are self-conscious of their cellulite, the mid-20s who are worried about fine lines and saggy tummies, and the 30-somethings who are starting to notice their age-spots?

Competition and Cynicism

Mintel research also revealed people want cosmetic products that solve specific problem areas, such as puffy eyes, rosacea and stretch marks. Consumers are more likely to go to a department store or online than shop in the local pharmacy or drugstore. They are also willing to pay more, spending upwards of $59, for a product they believe will help their specific condition. Women are also more likely to pay a premium for cellulite products in the hope that the next new breakthrough formulation will really work. In this way, cosmeceutical brands are in a strong position to build on their heritage and convince women of product efficacy. But challenges still exist. U.S. women are more likely to trust their dermatologist than a department store beauty consultant.