LONDON—Although a large number of natural and organic cosmetics have been launched in recent years, companies continue to grapple with ingredient issues. Organic Monitor research found the quality and supply of organic and natural ingredients remains a major issue for manufacturers and brand owners.
“Having sufficient supply of high-quality raw materials at reasonable costs is a major concern for many companies,” according to Judi Beerling, technical research manager at Organic Monitor.
The introduction of natural and organic cosmetic standards is also giving rise to new formulation challenges. Standards are imposing restrictions on the use of synthetic chemicals, processes and formulations. High levels of natural and organic ingredients in product compositions are affecting product stability and performance.
Beerling stated, “It is sometimes difficult to predict how natural and organic ingredients will change the stability profile of cosmetic products.” Thus, the issue of preservation and stability is a key challenge associated with natural and organic products.
Organic Monitor found there is increasingly less of an issue about functional materials, such as emulsifiers, surfactants, silicone replacements, etc., as many ingredient companies have filled the gaps. However, there becomes a concern about how these new ingredients react and constitute the new formulation.
Such technical issues are leading formulators and product developers to sacrifice efficacy and sensory aspects in favor of ingredient and stability requirements. As the natural and organic cosmetics market evolves, a growing challenge for formulators and product developers is to ensure certified products match rising consumer expectations. High prices of many natural and organic cosmetic products are leading many consumers to demand products that match conventional products with high sensory value.
However, companies continue to grapple with ingredient and formulation issues. With ingredient quality and raw material such a high priority, many companies are invested in supply chain projects. Ingredient firms have set up organic agriculture projects in developing countries. Finished product manufacturers have also invested in ethical sourcing projects to guarantee supply of raw materials.
Organic Monitor will be conducting a dedicated seminar on “Meeting the formulation challenges of developing natural cosmetics” at the upcoming Sustainable Cosmetics Summit. Beerling will highlight the major technical and formulation challenges and offer practical solutions in an interactive seminar. Also co-chairing the seminar is Liliana George, executive director of Estee Lauder Companies, whose company took years to secure organic lecithin supply for the launch of its Origins Organics range. The summit also has a dedicated seminar on ethical sourcing of natural and organic cosmetic ingredients.