by Lakshmi Prakash, Ph.D.
The secrets of visibly healthy hair are embedded in the biologically active cells in the scalp. The visible hair shaft is a non-living keratinous appendage or cuticle that stems from the hair follicle. At the cellular level, healthy survival of a significant number of dermal papillary cells is essential to sustain hair growth, and to facilitate the functions of associated endocrine systems. Hair dermal papilla cells are specialized mesenchymal cells that play major roles in hair formation, growth, and cycling. In cycling, a period of growth (anagen) is followed by periods of involution (catagen) and resting (telogen).
Adequate nourishment is essential to ensure healthy cell growth. The liquid endosperm of green coconut is a natural “sports drink,” a reservoir of nutrients and growth factors for the plant embryo. The liquid is rich in proteins, amino acids, sugars, vitamins, minerals and growth factors with pivotal roles in supporting tissue growth. Shikimic acids and quinic acids have been found in extracts of coconut water obtained from fruits at various stages of development, with the greatest amounts being found in young, green coconuts. These compounds, along with identified cytokinins also play an important role in the nourishment and growth of plant and animal cells. The amount of RNA-phosphorus (RNA-P) in coconut water was discovered to be consistently high in green coconut water. The RNA of coconut water would therefore efficiently support the metabolic mechanism vital to the budding endosperm tissue of the coconut, and sustain the growth of other living cells as well, in tissue culture. The presence of amino acids including arginine (a precursor of urea) supports hydration of living tissues.
Laboratory studies using a proprietary freeze-dried form of green coconut water (Cococin™), showed significant increases in the growth of fibroblasts. Levels of 1 to 5 percent w/w are recommended for use in hair care compositions to support healthy hair growth and hydration.
Sebum production by the sebaceous glands in the scalp contributes to “stickiness” and overgrowth of microbes including yeast associated with dandruff. Regular cleansing of the scalp to ensure its freedom from dust, sebum deposits, parasites, infestation, and inflammation, is fundamental to healthy hair.
The saponin fraction from Sapindus pericarp, known as soapnut, is an effective natural surfactant with activity against gram-positive bacteria such as S. aureus and several yeast species, including Candida, Hansenula and the dermatophytic yeast Malassezia furfur, which is associated with dandruff. In the Ayurvedic tradition, soapnut powder has been combined with other natural ingredients such as Terminalia chebula, Terminalia belerica, Emblica officinalis (Amla), turmeric powder, yogurt and coconut pulp for skin and hair care.
A branded saponin rich extract from the fruits of Sapindus trifoliatus, Sapindin®, is water soluble, with a pleasing nutty aroma, and blends well into hair care formulations of various types; with applications as a hydrating agent, in adding smoothness/softness to hair texture, as a natural surfactant, and in contributing to gloss, sheen and combability. The generally suggested use level of Sapindin in formulations is 1-5% w/w to offer antimicrobial support, sebum modulation, foaming action and cleansing under near neutral pH conditions.
The leaves and seeds of Azadirachta indica (Neem) yield limonoids with antibacterial activity and traditional use as insect repellants and pesticides. Neem is used in the management of skin and scalp conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and certain fungal infections. Neem oil limonoids are obtained from the cold pressed seed oil of neem. Clinical studies have found infestation with human head lice Pedulus capitis could be prevented and controlled by lightly wetting the scalp with a diluted (1:10) perfumed spray containing 1,000 ppm of the limonoid, Azadirachtin, in ethanol, validating the traditional application of neem oil for this purpose.
A proprietary limonoids-rich neem oil extract from Sabinsa, Neemoids®, is a free flowing pale brown to yellowish brown powder containing 50 percent total limonoids and 1,000 ppm Azadirachtin. Potential applications in hair care include antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic, insect repellant and anti-pediculosis formulations, including creams, lotions, sprays, shampoos, oils and related products.
Lakshmi Prakash, Ph.D., is vice president of innovation and business development at Sabinsa. Dr. Prakash has more than 25 years of combined research and management experience.