The testing doesn’t stop here, as additional tests may be necessary to further substantiate any claims. Photography systems like the Canfield VISIA-CR can take close up high resolution photographs of the face. These images are standardized and capture exact examples of wrinkles, fine lines, skin textures and coloration of the skin. This system can also provide 3D images that support exact claims like “can lead to a 10 percent reduction of wrinkles in eight weeks.”
Testing to ensure the product’s safety and efficacy also includes preservative efficacy tests and stability tests. Stability testing is extremely important because the product needs to have a fairly long shelf life and should hold up in some hot and cold conditions.
Proper Marketing
Once the product is out of the lab, it’s time to take it to market. FDA does regulate cosmeceutical and cosmetic ingredients; however, because “cosmeceuticals” is not a recognized regulatory category, a finished product can be a drug, a cosmetic or a combination of both depending on labeling and claims. The language “active ingredient” on the label will draw FDA’s attention, therefore it is recommended to state “cosmeceutical ingredients” or merely “ingredients” in packaging and marketing materials. Further, the claims in any marketing or packaging should be accurate, as misleading claims could ruin a product’s future before it even gets off the ground.
In the end, choosing the right ingredients and performing in-depth testing can ensure the final product meets any necessary regulations, is efficacious, has well-substantiated scientific backing and will be more likely to succeed.
Susan Trefny, formulation scientist, Chemir Analytical Services (Chemir.com), has more than 17 years of experience in the development of home, health and beauty products, from assisting with new concepts, production scale-up, product stability and process mapping to reduce manufacturing time in cost-effective manners. She has formulated many products from aerosol hairsprays to OTC personal care creams and lotions, and has experience with all natural and “green” product formulations.