by Susan Trefny
The development of a cosmeceutical is an in-depth project that usually involves assistance from experienced chemists. But even if you are not a chemist, there are certain things that are important to know in order to ensure the finished product is developed in an effective manner that also meets federal regulations. The principles of using quality ingredients and performing proper testing are paramount in product development. Many products only use a few cosmeceutical ingredients in order to limit the amount of testing needed. However, there are some standard processes that should be followed in the development of any new product regardless of how many cosmeceutical ingredients are included.
Consider the Claims
One first step is to determine whether the ingredients under consideration are supported by any clinical testing to support desired marketing claims such as “anti-aging.” While the majority of cosmeceuticals are not technically FDA approved, there are regulations about health claims, such as “anti-aging,” that must be followed. Proven clinical data is needed to substantiate anti-aging claims.
Formulators often tend to use the same types of ingredients like alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) because they are already established as an anti-aging component. Vitamins A, C and E are also commonly used, and have been used for decades, in cosmetics and facial treatments. They have been shown to exert antioxidant effects, scavenging free radicals created by UV radiation, air pollutants and hot/cold weather. In turn, skin is more protected from damaging elements over time.
Prototypes & Testing
Once the ingredients have been selected, it’s time to perform a round of prototyping with multiple versions of the formulation. Internal testing and prototyping afford the opportunity to work out any initial issues. Small things, such as a disagreeable scent or an unpleasant texture, will surface during this process. This testing should be used as an opportunity to perfect the product before it goes through stability testing required by FDA for any over-the-counter (OTC) product. Many companies document the results gathered during this testing period for any later examinations of the product’s formula.
There are certain testing devices clinical testing companies can use to accurately test a product’s effects and whether they match any desired marketing claims. For example, a corneometer measures the skin’s moisture content. A chromameter measures the color of skin and a cutometer measures elasticity. These devices help formulators test a formula’s effectiveness before spending significant amounts of money for further testing.