In ancient times, women used fruits, seeds and other plant materials to mix up facial creams in the never-ending quest for a youthful appearance. Today, breakthroughs in manufacturing and scientific research are driving formulators to incorporate a range of phytonutrients, vitamins, probiotics and other ingredients in anti-aging products with beneficial results.
Foremost among the anti-aging brigade are antioxidants, which are superlative in fighting the free radicals and lipid peroxidation that can exacerbate overall body wear and tear, which shows as skin dryness, dullness and wrinkles. In addition to anti-aging cosmeceuticals, there are many market opportunities for natural topical solutions, including reducing scar appearances; reducing the appearance of dry, cracked skin; nourishing skin against acne and other blemishes; and even self-tanning products.
Consider first the advice that an apple a day keeps the doctor away. Apples not only make a delicious and nutritious snack, they contain powerful compounds researched for skin nourishment. Apples are rich in polyphenols, 50 percent of which are procyanidols, co-factors of vitamin C that have been shown to promote collagen synthesis by protecting vitamin C against oxidation. Apples are also abundant in quercetin and phloridzin. Quercetin a very powerful flavonoid that is known to inhibit skin lipid peroxidation. Phloridzin is a compound that, so far, is only found in apples. Phloridzin prevents adipocytes from absorbing glucose via competitive inhibition and thus effectively blocks lipogenesis and adipocytes from storing lipids.
Another fruit source of beneficial phytonutrients: grapes. Grape extract has been shown to promote vascular endothelial growth factor expression in keratinocytes, which in turn may galvanize wound angiogenesis to help promote healing.2 Grape skin was the first known source of resveratrol, which has recently been shown to have a positive impact on longevity in conditions of obesity, and acts as a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-proliferative phytonutrient. Resveratrol has been studied in hairless mice for its protective properties against ultraviolet (UV) B-mediated cuteanous damage to positive effect.
Another class of flavonoids is oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), which have been shown to help stabilize collagen and elastin to potentially improve skin pliability and elasticity, improving appearance. Wrinkles are the outward appearance where collagen and elastin have broken down and/or diminished, so OPCs, when applied topically in a daily skin support regimen, can help stave off the breakdown of collagen and elastin.1
Plant extracts have been in use in a variety of cosmeceutical formulas for quite some time, and many of those extracts feature flavonoids. A body of research shows flavonoids, which are antioxidants, may permeate through the skin’s stratum corneum and reach the layers comprising the dermis and epidermis.3 Flavonoids may also act as synergists for enhancing the action of self-tanning substances, according to a recent patent application.4
Antioxidants are a beneficial addition to skin care products, and as research grows, cosmeceutical applications utilizing antioxidants are sure to increase.
Matthew W. Phillips has extensive executive management, sales and marketing experience in the nutraceutical industry on both the raw materials and finished goods side of the business, having worked as the vice president, marketing & sales for a global ingredient manufacturer, and as a international product manager for the largest MLM Company in the world. He is currently president/ COO for Cyvex Nutrition, a nutraceuticals supplier with offerings such as AppleZin®, BioVin®, BioVin® Advanced and Euro Black Currant. Phillips is a successful sales and marketing executive with demonstrated skills effective for increasing company revenues and profits.
1. Baumann, L. “Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals.” Dermatolo Thera. 2007;20:330–342
2. Ibid. Baumann, L. “Less-known botanical cosmeceuticals.” Dermatolo Thera. 2007;20:330–342
3. Arct, J., “Flavonoids as components of biologically active cosmeceuticals” Clin Derm. 2008;26:347–357
4. USPTO Patent Application 20080279793, (www.freshpatents.com)