Acne, the bane of every woman, has been valiantly battled over the years with many different products, some with success, some without. It knows no race, no age, no creed; acne is an equal-opportunity scourge.
Today, skin care product formulators are more educated in the science behind acne and are moving away from products with harsh chemicals to more natural formulas with skin-soothing ingredients. In an interview with Caroline Rushworth, director of education for Sothys-USA, she explains the technicalities of acne and the new cosmeceutical innovations that are on the market to defeat it, including Sothys' new Cosmeceutique RX 3-Step Acne Kit.
REBECCA: What, specifically, is acne? What causes it?
CAROLINE: Several factors are linked to an individual developing acne: hereditary factor, hormonal activity and changes during puberty and monthly menstrual cycle, stress, over-active sebaceous glands, clogging of the follicle openings, P-acnes bacteria.
During puberty, a body hormone known as DHT (dihydrotestosterone) can over-stimulate the sebaceous glands, resulting in an excessive production of sebum. This oil accumulates in the follicles and clogs the pores, resulting in acne.
In addition, increased androgen levels affect sebum production. The sebaceous glands are enlarged, therefore producing more sebum and the oil becomes a thicker, sticker consistency, therefore adding to the clogging of the pore opening.
Increased sebum production provides an environment for the overgrowth of P-acnes bacteria of Propionibacterium acnes, which is linked to the cause of acne. The bacteria can cause inflammation, which results in the formation of the papules, pustule and cysts
Hyperkeratinization and blockages (keratin and sebum) in follicles leads to the presence of acne
R: Who does it affect as far as age range? Can women who have gone through puberty still get acne?
C: There are various types of acne affecting women throughout life. Eighty-five percent of adolescents and young adults from ages 12 to 35 suffer from acne, and more than 50 percent of adult women suffer from occasional breakouts.
Acne vulgaris is the most common acne affecting teens and young adults presenting comedones, inflamed papules and pustules.
Adult acne is when you have infection or inflammation outside the follicle wall known as extra-follicular. It can be recognized by painful, red, deep-seated lumps or cysts presented along the jaw line. Adult acne can be triggered by a number of things. One of the main causes in today’s society is stress. When women are under constant stress, several hormonal fluctuations occur, which can lead to the symptoms of acne.
R: What are the effective ingredients in your kit that help clear acne and how do they work?
C: Salicylic acid [2 percent], minimizes breakouts, helps slough off pore-clogging skin cells, promotes skin clarity and aids skin clearing. It treats acne right at the source, keeping skin clear and healthy; tea tree oil [Melaleuca Alternifolia] calms inflammation, is an anti-bacterial and has purifying properties. Results are said to be comparable to benzoyl peroxide, but without excessive drying and it has been shown to be an effective anti-inflammatory in skin infections; and Calendula Officianalis [Marigold] flower extract, which is calming and an anti-inflammatory.
R: Why is an acne kit more effective than picking and choosing different cleansers, toners and moisturizers from various cosmeceutical lines?
C: The kits are specifically designed to help correct and prevent acne breakouts—persistent blocked pores, pustules, comedones—whether suffering as a teenager or adult. The products of a kit work in synergy to produce the desired results, whilst minimizing possible side effects of irritation, sensitivity and excessive dryness that are often associated with acne treatments.
The actives also work collectively over a period of time—they are presented in a kit to ensure the quantity of each product is sufficient to achieve long lasting results without overuse and abuse.
R: What sets the Cosmeceutique RX 3-Step Acne Kit apart from other mainstream kits, such as Proactive?
C: The kit is only available in our spas, therefore a personal skin analysis from a licensed esthetician will ensure the client receives the most appropriate treatment for their skin needs. This is particularly important when treating acne, due to the fact that there are different types of acne and the fact that all skin types and all ages can suffer the condition.
The esthetician can recommend specific application instructions to achieve results, whilst minimizing sensitivity and dryness. The client is encouraged to receive regular in-spa treatments to allow the skin care professional to assess and monitor the treatment program and enhance the overall result.
Once the acne treatment kit is completed, a range of maintenance homecare products are recommended according to the needs of the skin. This ensures long-lasting, clear skin and avoids the too common return of the acne condition. The salicylic acid and tea tree oil work together to product outstanding results.
R: Where can women purchase the kit?
C: It's available at the Sothys Institute Spa
Acne Glossary
- Acne vulgaris: the common name for acne. It develops as a result of blockages in hair follicles.
- Comedones: Commonly known as blackheads, comedones are a yellowish or blackish bump, or plug on the skin. A blackhead caused by excess oils that have accumulated in the sebaceous gland's duct. The substance found in these bumps mostly consists of keratin and modified sebum, which darkens as it oxidizes.
- Cysticacne: Also known as nodulocystic acne, it is a severe form of acne that develops into small cysts. Acne cysts are different than true cysts in the sense that they are not abnormal dilations of skin structure, but rather nodules of inflammation. Like other forms, it is caused by an excess buildup of sebum in the pores and, like pimples, cysts are usually filled with a white, pus-like substance.
- Hyperkeratinization: In hyperkeratinization, skin cells lining the hair follicle are not sloughed off, due to an excess of keratin, resulting in an increased adherence/bonding of dead skin cells together and blocking the hair follicle or clogging the sebaceous/oil duct, which can lead to acne.
- Keratin: A natural protein found in skin. Keratins are the main constituent of structures that grow from the skin, including hair and nails.
- Papule: A solid bump with no visible fluid that varies in size.
- Pustule: A small elevation of the skin containing pus, usually consisting of dead inflammatory cells.
- Sebum: An oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands in the skin to protect it from drying out. However, an excess of sebum can make the skin oily, oftentimes causing acne.